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Fur Shed in Downer, MN

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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby lyonch » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:54 am

Im not splitting the ears. I just pull the hode down until i see a fair amount of cartlidge showing and then cut it straight in to the skull. Then when i stretch it i leave the ears alone until they feel like they are stiffening up a little bit and pin them forward tight. Its best if you are having a problem with it to throw a little borax in there before you pin them forward or stretch them. I just push the pin in as far as it will go when i pin them forward. Im sure if you were to join top dog that there will be a video on there about putting up coyote furs sometime this winter.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Fallguy » Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:24 am

lyonch

Thats pretty cool hearing the different way you are doing it. Keep us posted how it is working. I am pretty confident in my method of putting up furs. I don't think I am going to dish out the money for the Top Dog forum just for the ear thing. Thanks anyway.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby lyonch » Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:39 am

Fallguy,

If i have some time one day i will take pics of everything and show you what im talking about.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Fallguy » Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:00 pm

Sounds good there lyonch. I am going to try some new things too with the ears and if I get it to work I will post some pictures also.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Prairie Ghost » Fri Oct 24, 2008 2:13 pm

Clean up the ear buts and trim them down this should take 30sec - 1 min and pin them forward. I use to remove cartilidge on TANNED hides when i worked at a taxidermy studio can be tedious to not rip them. I don't think they are going to sell for a dime more as long as you keep the ears uniform and neat looking it shouldn't matter.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby LeviM » Sun Oct 26, 2008 4:21 pm

Bingo! Thats what I have always been taught
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Tim Anderson » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:31 pm

I just take my time skinning and use the knife most of the way so i have less to flesh later. I sew up the holes and wash the hides and then after a drip dry i stretch them. While they are drying skin side out i then touch them up with a knife getting what flesh and fat i missed while skinning. I don't mess with the ears at all. I will brush and fluff the hide with one of the wifes old hair dryers and i'm good to go..
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Fallguy » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:38 pm

Well guys due to the fact that I only have two stretchers I put up two furs today.

I decided to try and remove the entire front of the ear and cartilage and just retain the back tawny part of the ear. Speed wise is didn't take all that long but I ended up with two good ears and two that were a littly ratty. Too bad I got one good and one bad on each coyote. :lol:

I am going to see how those work and maybe do my other two coyotes later this week or weekend and do it another way that you guys mentiond. Then when I sell I will see if the buyer makes a comment either way.

The big reason I get worked up about this is the only hair slippage i have gotten on a hide is on the ear tips. I don't want that to happen again I guess.

If I decide I like this method when I get good at it I will add some pictures on the fur handling forum.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Fallguy » Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:46 am

Tim

Do you leave all that red muscle layer on your coyotes? Do you ever have a problem with spoilage? Geez maybe I am spending too much time and effort fleshing but I usually remove all that off.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby LeviM » Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:07 am

just go over the red muscle and get the fat off, leave the muscle. It will not spoil
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby lyonch » Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:26 am

leaving that little bit of muscle on there and not forcing it all off with the fleshing knife in my opinion will help you more than hurting you. If you try taking it all off then you face the possibility of taking too much off and exposing hair. if i get some downtime this fall/winter i will make a video/take pictures of how i do it and then post them.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Prairie Ghost » Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:37 pm

If you don't have to use a knife or other cutting tool (razor blade) what comes off with the hide by PULLING ONLY should be able to be left on besides where there was a bullet hole causing some flesh or fat to attach to the hide due to tearing. This excludes the white fat that will pull off with the hide that should peel right off with a fleshing knife.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Coyotehunter » Sun May 03, 2009 8:48 am

Everyone needs to go buy a box or 2 of Borax. this can be used to clean the fur and dusted on with a salt shaker will prevent spoilage. Great stuff, a must have. I know a gal in Montana that can put up 10 skinned coyotes per hour. Yes more than likely a guy is taking to much time fleshing. Knock off the big chunks, give it a good dusting and move on to the next one.
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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby Tim Anderson » Sun May 03, 2009 9:42 am

I also use the Borax but i only use it for around the bullet holes to kill the bacteria..
The muscle on the hide has to remain on the hide, its what holds the guard-hairs in place till the hide dries.. Like others stated just remove excess fat and flesh.. If you wash the hide and then place it on the stretcher there willbe a clear membrain, kinda like slim. start at the top and work youre way down pulling on the membrain and cutting a little with a knife as you go, the hide will dry faster and will have a crackleing sound to it when you snap the hide...

As for the ears i think i mentioned this before in another post.. Anyway i talked with my fur buyer and he said it don't make any difference if you remove the cartlidge or not. The main thing is to have a even stretch on the hides and don't over stretch them or under stretch them to where it leaves a wrinkle..


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Re: Fur Shed in Downer, MN

Postby LeviM » Mon May 04, 2009 5:13 am

I also use borax. Like said before, I do the bullet hole, head, legs and any muscle tissue. Works really good!
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