Snare Build

Coyote, Fox, Beaver, Racoon, etc.

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Coyotehunter
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Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

snare parts
snare build
tail build
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22-250AI
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Re: Snare Build

Post by 22-250AI »

Awesome vids, Thanks coyotehunter !
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1Shooter
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Re: Snare Build

Post by 1Shooter »

Thanks for the videos, they were very informative :)
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tdkahn
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Re: Snare Build

Post by tdkahn »

Those videos were great! I really like the step by step and then the results. Just currious as to where you pickup the cam-lock, springs, and swivels? I can get the cable, stopps and washers at the local hardware or Lowes.
Thanks.
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

Probably will not be able to get the right cable at the the local hardware store and the stops they will charge you a fortune for them. Washers yes. The snare shop or O'Gormans is were I get most of my parts.
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tdkahn
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Re: Snare Build

Post by tdkahn »

Thanks! Season is almost over here, March 15, but I can get ready for next year. I might look at Gander Mountain to see what they have. I know itwill probably cost more, but I'm only hunting (deer and coyote) and going to try trapping on about 130 acres total in 2 sections. We've got a lot more houses and roads in Indiana than you do out there. Seeing the pictures and videos of the landscape people post on here makes me envious.
Thanks again.
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

I have trapped and hunted in and around subdivisions. Less places for the animals to travel...........sometimes this makes it easier to find and set up for them. Lots of other concerns of course but the critters are generally there. domistic animals can be a problem. lots of tricks out there that will help avoid a train wreck.
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coyotelatrans
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Re: Snare Build

Post by coyotelatrans »

Hey nice videos, have you ever tried the stinger kill springs? I find them to be far superior than the coil spring types, they move far more cable and with "teeth" they will lay coyotes out darn fast in the most open terrain! The coil types just don't move as much cable and many one use and they are distorted. Plus something I do different is hammer on my stops as I have had a few with the press that didn't get the correct bite on the cable, by hammering them on I know exactly what I have for cable to stop connection. I also use a smaller stop on the kill spring end made by snare shop the small black ones, they just have little less visablility . We know the main things is to keep all that out of the coyotes line of site. Thanks again for the video.
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

I made those videos a few years back and have made some minor changes since then but for the beginner it gets them off on the right foot. I boil all of my fence snares in baking soda and boil then paint my trail snares. I have gone to 1X16 cable and double barrel swivels on my trail snares. I do not have any problems with the springs I am useing and re use most of them. On my fence snares right now I am useing 10' 5/64 7x7 with 110 lb break aways and cam locks with no kill spring. No swiveling and I tie off at a post with my loop crimped on to a 11 ga wire hanger. I run a lot of fence snares and this set up works very well for me. the snares are faster then the 1X19 and with the crimp they typically die right there in the hole. I have some areas with hundrreds of miles of woven wire fence, the amount of snares I go through in a year has made me go to a snare that is faster to build as well. still use the 1X19 - 1/16" on my trail snares, low visibility and a little less chew outs then the 7X7. also the loop stays open better from bumps and wind then the 7X7. I do not care for those crimpers much, I hammer is always better.
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

welder.jpg
24" #9 wire and 3/8" rebar "T" post
24" #9 wire and 3/8" rebar "T" post
2 - spot welds, keep the heat on the rebar.
2 - spot welds, keep the heat on the rebar.
snaresupport1.jpg
finished support
finished support
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

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Tim Anderson
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Tim Anderson »

Would be nice if other trappers read the forums and learned how to set and use snares properly. We picked up roughly 15 coyotes this season with a broken snare or all of the snare around there necks.. Looks like some are using fox snares and the coyotes are twisting them off and also some are using light weight mechanics wire to anchor the snare to a stake..
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

I will try to get some pics of the staking system I use. I just don't loose animals very often but it can happen. If a coyote backs away from the anchor point the cable goes right by the corner of their mouth on a neck catch. If that happens and the decide to chew the cable regardless of the size or type of cable they can chew out. usually more of a problem when you don't have significant vertical entanglement. This of course can be addressed as well with a 30" X 1/2" rebar.
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Prairie Ghost »

I've gotten where i don't trust the spring in the sage brush anymore. ALL my snares except ones in the cedar trees are anchored to a 12" Iowa Disposable stake. Didn't have a single chew out this year and only had one last year i believe. Smaller batch of coyotes snared this year also that can skew the chew out rates. Not happy with my test on senneker locks this year no chew outs but coyotes were alive longer than i like to see. I will stick with Ambergs
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Re: Snare Build

Post by Coyotehunter »

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