GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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leadbiscuit
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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I always leave a bit of the original bedding intact around the guard screw holes. This is to insure the action doesn't sit too deep in the stock. Here's a pic of the stock all milled out and ready to be bedded. You'll notice this stock already has pillars installed.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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The stock is now ready for Devcon Plastic Steel putty. A thin coat of release a gent is applied to everything on the barreled action that may come into contact with the putty.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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The barreled action is then placed into the stock. A few wraps of masking tape around the barrel towards the end of the stock keep things centered. You see a line of excess Devcon that squeezed out of the inletting. This is a good sign. It means enough bedding compound was used. It's a simple matter to wipe it off with a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Finally I wrap the action and stock with masking tape and let it sit overnight.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Here's a pic of what it looked like when I popped it loose the next day. The excess compound is then removed with a dremel type air tool.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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I'm gonna leave out the finishing of the stock mainly because I used an automotive type basecoat, clearcoat finish.If you guys want, I can do a thread on duracoating another time. Moving on, here's a pic of the EGW and Burris Tactical rings. The base is a 20moa unit. I don't think I'll ever need the extra elevation, but it doesn't hurt to have it.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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It's time to install the base, rings, and scope. Here's a tip on base installation that is relevant on any type of centerfire rifle. Install the very front base screw first. As you're tightening it down, wiggle the base gently back and forth. You should feel the resistance on the screw and lose the abiblity to wiggle the base at the exact same time. If you feel resistance on the screw and you can still move the base easily, the screw will need to be shortened. When the front base screw is too long it will go all the way through the action and come into contact with the threaded portion of the barrel. This can cause some funny things to happen, accuracy wise. If you've got a rifle that's driving you nuts, it's one of those little things it pays to check. Here's a pic of the rifle with base and rings installed. I'm checking the eye relief on the scope to make sure the rings are in the right place before I lap them. You'll notice the stock has been painted black and clearcoated in the meantime.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Time to lap the rings. This is another operation that anyone who mounts they're own scopes should probably learn. I made my own bar, but there are commercial units available. While I'm using lapping compound I bought from Brownells, valve grinding compound you can buy at any auto parts store will work too.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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I normally spin the bar around a few times to spread the compound, and then work it forward and back in the rings. I wipe everything off with rubbing alcohol once in a while to check the progress. You can see where the finish is removed from the rings. Looks like about 85 to 90% contact. Good enough.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Finally a pic of the completed rifle.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Well that's pretty much the start to finish on my 22-243 bench gun. Hope you enjoyed it. Please ask any questions you have. I'll do my best to answer.

have a good one
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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Here's a little better pic of the gun.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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best gun post to date. Great job man. Lots of good info here. I got to admit, I have mounted scoped my whole life and I have never lapped the rings.........do you see it as a significant item in your opinion. How bad do you see them with the upper end good quality rings that are available? good point about the screws.....I have run across that a couple of times as well as the the action screws being to long.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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CH
The loopy stuff is normally pretty good. It has just as much to do with the screw hole placement in the action. I've taken to using heavy duty tactical style ring on most of my stuff. They're not windage adjustable so the only way to bring them into alignment is to lap them. It's mostly a personal preference. I'm also a bit of a scope-whore, so fewer marks means better trade in value.
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Re: GETTING STARTED By Leadbisquit

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I tried to sell a leupold to my dad that had some ring marks on it and he about had a fit. I can't seem to keep anything looing good no matter how hard I try. It all looks like hammered shit after bouncing around with me for the summer.
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