Rub sets

Coyote, Fox, Beaver, Racoon, etc.

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Coyotehunter
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Re: Rub sets

Post by Coyotehunter »

if a guy wants to put up a flag and you do not have a nearby tree..............well rebar works great. I know of a guy in Colorado and even Ogorman uses a 15' piece of conduit. Kill poles are a great tool when you do not have heavy brush, trees or good sage.
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DustyC
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Re: Rub sets

Post by DustyC »

I think that a guy needs to run kill poles. If you don't, you are missing out on some great snare locations. As for leaving the trap uncovered, I tried it and it worked on a couple locations where I was on location but the trap kept freezing down even with coal shale. I still had a hard time walking away from the set. I also saw where I missed a couple cats when the trap was uncovered.
I use flags on alot of my cat sets. On some I don't. It's a matter of personal prefference. Everyone knows that a cat has a don't give a shit attitude and alot of times won't commit to just a scented set. A flag just gives you one more attractor to get the cat to work your set.
Just my opinion. Flags work for me and alot of 80+ cat men. :D
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bucksnbears
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Re: Rub sets

Post by bucksnbears »

what do you all meen by flags?? feathers/pigion wings?? and how far from the trap do you place these?
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Re: Rub sets

Post by EO caller »

bucksnbears wrote:what do you all meen by flags?? feathers/pigion wings?? and how far from the trap do you place these?
I use pigeon wings a lot of times. When I run out of those I've been known to use a piece of white vet wrap. My dad use to use white chicken wings. You can't use game bird parts in Oregon. I've heard of guys using CD's but I haven't tried that.
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barebackjack
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Re: Rub sets

Post by barebackjack »

Ive heard of all kinds of things used.

Cassete tape.
Tinsel.
Pop cans.
CDs.

Pretty much anything flashy.
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Re: Rub sets

Post by barebackjack »

I hear a lot of reference to drags for cats. Any particular reason? Do cats shy away from a defined catch circle?
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Re: Rub sets

Post by Coyotehunter »

Cat sets get better with each catch, they love the smell of other cats. Most cat sets are 2 traps, which is hell on them if you stake your traps. So if you run drags and pre hook them around some brush, rocks........they don't tear themselves up and still leave lotsof smells at your sets.
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coyotelatrans
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Re: Rub sets

Post by coyotelatrans »

Hey sorry been gone for awhile had a funeral to attend. No need for rebar kill poles on coyotes with stinger type kill springs and teeth :D Give them a good leash and they go down quick and humanly the high majority of the time. Trails entact and ready to be reset with minimal distrubance and no need packing around 300 lbs of re bar in a truck.
Last edited by coyotelatrans on Fri May 06, 2011 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rub sets

Post by Coyotehunter »

Personally I think those stingers are junk. What the hell, are you trying to imply that the coyote just runs to the end of your snare and drops dead. When I read your posts I do not know if I should laugh or pull my hair out. You come up with the goofiest shit some times. I guess now I don't need any entanglement, I just slap on a stinger and they just drop dead. WOW!! that is just amazing. :roll:
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coyotelatrans
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Re: Rub sets

Post by coyotelatrans »

OK? What do the photo's I posted show you?

It shows me the lack of entanglement and dead coyotes! Nothing there for them to wrap around just dead coyotes, trails entact add a new snare to the cable extension prop up the support wire and be on your way. Fast and effective.

Have you ever used them for a period of time?

Junk? How so.

I have seen that vast difference between NO spring, the coil springs that IF one is lucky might move 3/4" at most of cable before they "coil bind" meaning come to a dead stop or the stingers that apply more pressure as the coyote fights harder. Add teeth to the locks and you have a superior system IMO of course over the coil springs that come with a pre set limit of cable gathering ability. I can show you hip snared coyotes dead in the same manner, alot less destruction over any other method I have tried snaring. Again No need for packing rebar by simply using a better spring again IMO of course.

Am I stating their dead within seconds or a few minutes or less? Not really but you can tell by the lack of a catch circle or struggle and Zero entanglment I need NO kill poles and have a super low chew out or escape rate, I have found darn few live coyotes when using these, the few I find are cover that is real whimpy and acts more like a shock absorber, but even the majority of them are DOA.
Last edited by coyotelatrans on Fri May 06, 2011 1:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rub sets

Post by Coyotehunter »

I have to say that with out exception your posts always demonstrate your superior methods. What do you think those coyotes are doing from the time they start to choke.............until the point at which the die........really what do you think is going on? Do you really think they just stand there.........or maybe with the stinger spring they just lay down and wait to die. the only way other springs act like a shock absorber is if their lock does not lock up. Does not matter which quick kill spring you use..........if your lock does not lock up then it will just pump when they hit the end of it.
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coyotelatrans
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Re: Rub sets

Post by coyotelatrans »

superior? Nope I know they work for me.

I agree the lock is a part of it but the more pressure applies to the arteries the quicker the time to death, that coupled with a good spring allows no back off and more pressure applied to those arteries. Even a toothed cam by itself doesn't give the same results as one with the stinger type springs.

Many ways to get to the same end result a dead coyote. Some like to use kill poles and others can use a different setup with no need for Kill Poles resulting in the same end result.

I used the coil spring types for years prior to the stinger type offerings and I can set a differance and how quick they die without the aid of entanglment needed is all.

Now I will sit back and be quite :D Thanks for your input.
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Re: Rub sets

Post by Coyotehunter »

Another questioned unanswered..............you are just saying the same thing as before with not even trying to address the argument for entanglement.
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coyotelatrans
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Re: Rub sets

Post by coyotelatrans »

What answer are you seeking??? I use zero entanglement with little torn up area and can reset the majority of these trails back up again and catch more coyotes. I don't need kills poles to put them down any faster or with any less damage to the area. I spend .20 more on a different spring that I find to have more benefit and not have to spend money of steel rebar or pack it around, cut it, weld spades onto the bottom of it to keep if from turing round and round. The lock and the spring does what it is meant to do.

If they where not efficant and "JUNK" where are the weed whacker trails from hrs and hrs of of these coyotes fighting?


They act like a shock absorber when you don't get a solid situation, springy cover doesn;t allow them to set a lock or the spring as tight as the cover gives as they move. Solid cover or no entanglemnt and a good lock and spring that will move as much cable down as far as there momentum will allow all works in our advantage. 5 ft snares and 8-10 ft extensions in the open gives them more momentum to set the lock very tight, the stinger spring and it';s design aids in that cinching. Try one on your hand versus one without and one with a coil spring and tell me if you can feel a differance in pressure or not.

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Re: Rub sets

Post by EO caller »

barebackjack wrote:I hear a lot of reference to drags for cats. Any particular reason? Do cats shy away from a defined catch circle?
If I can pound a stake in BBJ I'll do it. Alot of my cat country is pretty rocky. I also do some trapping out of a boat so their is alot of walking and its easier to pack a trap and drag than a bunch of stakes. I just sling em over my shoulder.
I'll always try to pre hook my drags on something to keep them in one spot.
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