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Has anyone heard of the #660 Superbear? It's a conversion of a #330 conibear to a much wider "#660 Superbear". Does anyone here use these for otter and/or beaver? I don't see myself ever using these, just curious if anyone here has ever heard of, seen, or used them.

1S, have some, they have there place, don't require as much fencing with the wider opening and you see fewer refusals. Another tool. Getting a good stand for them is the problem.

Just like randy stated, its just another tool. They work great on trap shy beaver from what i have been told. Anytime i need a real solid stabilization for a conibear i always use rebar and place it in a V shape.

Id like to see how they hold on a really big beaver and a poor catch. With that wide spacing between springs, I can see a big catch possibly bending the jaws.

I havent seen one up close, but they dont look like their reinforced to terribly much.

I have seen beaver bend a 330 pretty good if caught by the head. This trap im sure, will bend somewhat. The jaws on a 660 superbear are 1/2" solid steel rod that is welded to a standard 330 frame trying to prevent any bending, and to help hold those unfortunate poor catches. As mentioned before they are not a preffered trap by choice to use on beaver all the time, but when needed it is a tool that can help lure that trap shy beaver right in.

Id like to get my hands on some MB 1216s. 16" is plenty wide, and they have full striker bars. I dont think the 660s have that.

Im thinking of welding a 3/8" flat stock bar on end to one jaw to close the gap some on my duke 330s.

barebackjack wrote:Id like to get my hands on some MB 1216s. 16" is plenty wide, and they have full striker bars. I dont think the 660s have that.

Im thinking of welding a 3/8" flat stock bar on end to one jaw to close the gap some on my duke 330s.

My beaver trapping partner bought some 330s from a guy that had, I believe MTP products customized his 330s with a kill bar. I will take some pics! It helps close the gap for sure!